blast from the (not too distant) past

•Sunday, November 15, 2009 • Leave a Comment

I saw MANY shows on the Riverboat President, many mentioned in this T-P article, mostly the 80’s alternative/new wave bands – fun times indeed!

Glory Days
When the Riverboat President was the coolest music club in town
Sunday, November 15, 2009
Doug MacCash

Cyndi Lauper’s pixie face was streaked with sweat. Her eyes were caked with makeup. Half of her hair was shaved short — if I remember correctly — the other half mopped over sideways. She stood at the edge of the stage on the Riverboat President and delivered a mock speech on the importance of personal hygiene and good grooming. She was a hoot. It was the 1980s, Lauper was the princess of punk/pop, the last person you’d expect to see performing while cruising down the Mississippi River.

Men at Work. Cheap Trick. The Producers. So many big acts rocked the boat back then.

James Brown. Jerry Lee Lewis. Etta James.

The SS President was a 1924-vintage cruise boat. Wide. White. Three decks. A cross between a manatee and a wedding cake. Ask anybody: It was the coolest nightclub in town.

Roy Orbison. Joan Jett. Tina Turner was, of course, born to go rollin’, rollin’, rollin’ on a river.

I always had the best seat in the house. I was one of the bartenders, stationed right in front of the stage, in the blare of the speakers. I was twenty-something. It’s amazing that I can still hear. When Gary Numan played, the booze bottles rattled like castanets.

Doug Kershaw, King Sunny Ade. Juice Newton. Juice Newton?

It has been almost 25 years since the Riverboat President left New Orleans. The boat did weekend dance and concert cruises here from the end of World War II until the mid-1980s. Capt. Clarke “Doc” Hawley, who earned his New Orleans harbor license on the President in the mid 1960s, remembers that a band called the Crawford-Ferguson Night Owls played back then.

Johnny Rivers. The Mamas and the Papas. Rick Nelson.

I’m thinking about the Prez — we always called it the Prez — because Mari Landy recently moved back to town after 20 years. She was one of the bow bartenders, along with Denise Berthiaume, who now owns LeMieux Galleries on Julia Street. They were also 20-somethings back then. A few weeks ago we had dinner on Frenchmen Street. Mari said that when the economy in Portland petered out, she and her husband found the lure of New Orleans too great to resist.

Doc Severinsen. Bobby Womack. Pee-wee Herman stood at my bar smoking a cigarette during his sound check, but since he was wearing his street clothes, I didn’t know who he was. Everybody smoked back then; my bar clothes used to smell like a picnic ham at the end of the night.

Tips were good. Sometimes we filled up those big maraschino cherry jars almost to the brim. Naturally, we spent a lot of our earnings on the way home. The Jimani. The Hilton. The Quarter Scene. Bailey’s.

David Allan Coe, The Pointer Sisters. Gill Scott-Heron was waaay ahead of his time.

I visited with Capt. Robert “Robbie” Mitchell Sr. last month on the Riverboat Natchez — the President’s prettier, younger sister. He was the twenty-something chief mate on the Prez, way back when. Robbie’s got grandkids now. He reminded me how the decks used to leak like sieves, and how some guitar player was afraid he’d be electrocuted by water on the stage.

Peter Frampton. B. B. King. Jerry Garcia played for something like three hours.

Captain Robbie reminded me of the doubleheaders during Jazz Fest, when we’d work one show, clean the dance floor and start all over. He said the Prez could carry 3,100 passengers. He remembers showing an unhappy Jazz Fest big wig to the bottom of the gangplank because he didn’t have a ticket, then later being congratulated for his conscientiousness. He remembers we had two brigs. He remembers how the old boat would thread its way between other ships on the river, during storms, while the band played on below deck. Captain Robbie said he had a poster covered with autographs from all the musicians that played the Prez, but it was lost in the 2005 flood.

Sitting on the Natchez last month in the rain, I remembered the wonderful mushroom smell of the Mississippi.

Joan Baez. Arlo Guthrie. Leon Redbone “” someone stole Leon’s cane during the show. Did he get it back? I couldn’t tell you.

Does anybody else remember when one of the engineers caught this, like, 4-foot-long catfish and we all went down to the cooler to see it? Does anybody else remember that on the port mezzanine there were palm trees and cartoon monkeys embossed on the wall under something like 50 coats of paint? Does anybody else remember how the boat would list when the act was over and the crowd would shift toward the dockside exits?

Jose Feliciano. Bonnie Raitt. I’d forgotten them, but Mari remembered. Everybody I talked to added to the list.

We served Dixie and no other beer. The B-52 cocktail was popular. I forgot what went in one, so I looked up the recipe: Coffee liqueur, orange liqueur, Baileys Irish Cream. The recipe said the drink should be layered, but I think we ordinarily shook them. So long as it tasted like Easter morning, I’m sure, nobody complained.

Woody Herman. Sha Na Na. Eric Burdon. I missed Iggy Pop and David Crosby.

My first night was the Rolling Stones’ private 1981 tour party. Imagine that. I only saw one Stone close up, but he was the one I wanted to see: Keith Richards. His complexion was like concrete. He was skinny, skinny, and wore pixie boots. He sat with Deacon John in a mezzanine bar. He drank Bourbon. Denise made a gold lamé dress for the occasion. It was a trip.

The Righteous Brothers. Peter Tosh. War.

We all danced behind the bars. Sometimes I was so into what was happening on stage, I forgot we were cruising, until the foghorn blasted through the music. I loved the whole scene. How could you not? Mari, who was born in New York, summed up the magic like so: “Everybody was like, ‘Oh my God, you’re living in New Orleans and working on a riverboat.’ “

Irma Thomas used to take off her shoes after a couple of songs — she was right at home. The Nevilles played monthly. They were so unbelievably good. Do you remember a cover band called Ivy?

Bert Smith is currently the respected deputy chief administrative officer of Jefferson Parish, but back in the Carter/Reagan-era he played rhythm guitar with New Orleans’ favorite new age band, The Cold. Smith says that the Cold played at other nightspots more often, but people still associate the group with the riverboat.

“It must have been a special place,” he said, “more than just a place to see the band.”

Ironically, Smith said, performers, who were confined to the stage and dressing rooms, missed out on many of the President’s inherent charms.

“The downside was, we didn’t get to enjoy the cruise,” Smith said. “We didn’t get to go outside, look at the city, and throw up overboard like everybody else.” Smith cleared up a foggy memory for me. For years I’ve wondered: Did U2 really appear on the Prez or am I imagining things? Smith says he saw the U2 concert.

By the spring of 1988 the President had moved upriver to St. Louis; later she was fitted out as a casino in Davenport, Iowa. Capt. Bill Wilson, the master of the President in the 1980s, tells me that he heard the ship had fallen on hard times and was recently purchased for some nominal amount, dismantled, and that there are plans to restore her as a landlocked hotel somewhere in the Midwest.

Dr. John. The Meters. Fats Domino. Allen Toussaint. Did I miss anybody?

Did I remember anybody who wasn’t really there?

I think maybe Romeo Void was scheduled to play but didn’t. Did Flock of Seagulls play the boat? I think so. The B-52s were the first band I ever saw with pre-recorded music.

Looking back, it strikes me as odd that the 1980s are remembered for being so polished, so primary-colored, so plastic. For me, for everyone on the Prez probably, the whole MTV aesthetic was shanghaied by the smell of river water, the sound of fog horns, a beer called Dixie, and giant catfish. We were working on a riverboat, after all, and living in New Orleans. Oh my God.

good news for the gulf oyster industry

•Friday, November 13, 2009 • Leave a Comment

The FDA backs off its oyster processing regulations.

the jack of all trades

•Tuesday, November 10, 2009 • 1 Comment

First, Irvin Mayfield magically transforms from musician to librarian, becoming the chairman of the board of the New Orleans Public Library system just because he has a personal interest in the library system and not necessarily the academic credentials to operate a library system. And now he is on a short list to become the operating manager of the Municipal Auditorium?

I don’t get it – everyone gives him accolades aplenty, but if one reads between the lines all one sees is a power-tripper who’s only qualification is he’s personally connected to C. Ray Nagin.

As Mayor Ray Nagin on Monday proudly unveiled a proposal to transform the shuttered Municipal Auditorium into a cutting-edge performance and production complex showcasing the music of New Orleans, there was no reaction to the ambitious plan from City Council members, who must sign off on the deal.

It was unclear whether the council was silent because members spent the day reviewing the mayor’s proposed 2010 operating budget, or whether they were simply still grappling with the complexity of the $80 million auditorium makeover Nagin envisions.

While all seven council members gathered at City Hall for their initial hearing on the spending plan, in which they must make up a $68 million shortfall, Nagin held a news conference about a mile away where he described the vision for the city-owned auditorium as an “incredible concept.” Welcomed by a brass brand, the mayor said the iconic structure in Louis Armstrong Park, swamped by Hurricane Katrina, has languished long enough.

Asked if it is realistic to get the issue before the council by January, as the developers hope, Nagin said, “anything’s feasible.” “You know, it’s just a matter of will,” he said, as he announced that he had selected developer Stewart Juneau, the lone bidder, to head up the proposed redevelopment. “We need to get this going. The building is just sitting and the longer it sits, the more issues that arise there.”

Juneau, who has teamed with another staunch Nagin supporter, musician Irvin Mayfield, is seeking a 50-year lease from City Hall, which would require a vote of the council. No council members attended the announcement, which took place at Dooky Chase’s restaurant. Council members could not be reached for comment later.

Nagin, who will leave office in May, said he has not spoken “specifically” with council members about the project, but said they are “aware of the concept,” which he outlined in his final State of the City address in May.

It’s worth remembering that a lack of council support scuttled another high-profile initiative Nagin announced in that speech — a plan to purchase the downtown Chevron complex as a new home for City Hall. That deal failed on a 4-3 vote after council members opposed to the idea said neither they nor members of the public had been sufficiently briefed on the plan or had a chance to offer meaningful input.

Juneau’s auditorium plan calls for the revamped facility to combine traditional stages with digital production facilities, a merchandise distribution center, a culinary school, a jazz museum and offices for nonprofit and commercial start-ups in entertainment-related fields.

The plan relies heavily on as-yet uncommitted FEMA money, plus historic preservation tax credits to finance a massive interior renovation. The developers also want to use state tax credits for music and film investment to lure tenants in advance of an anticipated December 2011 reopening.

Juneau’s development team, which responded to a request for proposals issued by Nagin’s administration in September, also includes restaurateur Leah Chase, Voodoo Experience festival producer Steve Rehage and a handful of music-industry executives who have expressed, in writing, their desire to set up shop in the revamped space. “With this kind of cooperation and this kind of partnership,” Nagin said, “I can’t imagine them (council members) not supporting this.”

At this point, the only certain opposition to the auditorium plan appears to be from Leo Watermeier, the longtime leader of the Friends of Armstrong Park group and an outspoken critic of Nagin’s other plans for the park. On Monday, Watermeier questioned the fairness of the public bid process for the project and said it was an attempt “to turn over a valuable public asset to the mayor’s friends.”

“The bid specs were designed so one group could submit them. The other developers soon realized the bid was already cooked,” he said. Watermeier said the Municipal Auditorium should be restored to its original use, adding that he and neighbors he said he represents are “skeptical that a large commercial enterprise belongs in the park.” “There’s nothing but vacant land in this city, so if this is such a good idea, why not build it on vacant land elsewhere?” he added.

Nagin dismissed suggestions that Juneau, who has openly discussed his ideas for the auditorium for more than a year, had any advantage. “I talked to Stewart a while back, but I’ve talked to other developers who are out there about this particular concept and tried to get people to give me some ideas about what we could do with this building,” Nagin said. “I don’t know if they have a running start because they sure have a lot of work to do going forward.”

Juneau, a local real estate maven who turned the former Maison Blanche building on Canal Street into the Ritz-Carlton hotel, said he is preparing to launch a six-week community outreach program to get feedback from citizens.

“This is a conceptual plan and conceptual plans mean exactly that,” Juneau said. “It means it’s a living and breathing organism. It will grow, it will change.” Juneau, who said he plans to stage a “festival-style” public event in early December, said he and his team members are “capable and open to listening and modifying the plan that we have.”

Nagin said Juneau’s proposal offers the opportunity to transform Armstrong Park into “the premier cultural and music complex in America and probably in the world.” Nagin said he will continue to suggest “good ideas” like the auditorium development.

“Now, hopefully the council will buy into it,” he said. “But that’s up to us. It depends upon what the people say — whether they like this type of initiative or not.”

and the background on this story

New Orleans library chairman Irvin Mayfield has aggressively replaced system’s leadership
By David Hammer, The Times-Picayune
December 17, 2008, 8:18PM
TED JACKSON / THE TIMES-PICAYUNELibrary CEO Rita Trigs and Irvin Mayfield talk about the agenda for the opening of the Lakeview library branch.

When the New Orleans Public Library released its 25-year, $650 million master plan in the spring, nationwide praise rolled in for board Chairman Irvin Mayfield Jr.

The renowned jazz trumpeter, brash and 30 years old, heralded a fundamental push for change at a library system decimated by Hurricane Katrina. Everyone from the New York Times to Billboard magazine to The Times-Picayune pointed to Mayfield as just the man who could overcome both the system’s pre-storm neglect and the damage inflicted by Katrina.

But while nobody doubts that Mayfield is a passionate ambassador for his hometown and its library, his moves as board leader — at least so far — have only added to the tumult in the system.

Often outside the public eye, Mayfield and other board members have cleaned house aggressively — overly so, in the eyes of critics. The four top-ranking librarians and the director of a library support foundation all left as Mayfield, a Grammy nominee whose main gig is directing the New Orleans Jazz Orchestra, conducted a major realignment that made a former mayoral aide who isn’t a professional librarian the system’s top administrator. For now, the support foundation is being directed on an interim basis by a volunteer, Ronald Markham, who is also the chief executive of Mayfield’s orchestra and a childhood buddy.

Some departed librarians, as well as close observers of the board’s affairs, see the shakeup as a power play by a musician-cum-political figure who wants to micromanage a sprawling library operation from a board seat.

See the current administrators

‘Signs of disarray’

In a recent article, the Library Journal, a national trade publication, bemoaned “signs of disarray” and a “loss of institutional memory” in the New Orleans library changes.

Elizabeth Bedikian, a former ranking member of the library staff who left the institution in 2004 — two years before Mayor Ray Nagin named Mayfield to the board — said the governing body has driven away the very people it needs to rebuild.

“These are people who came back after Katrina and led the charge and worked very hard, ” she said. “In my day, the board didn’t run the show: The library director did.”

No apologies

But Mayfield and Rica Trigs, 36, a former aide to Mayor Marc Morial now serving as the library’s chief administrator, make no apologies for shaking up the institution. Both contend the system was plagued by underperformers. They said there was a need to break from traditional civil service methods, promoting lower-level employees over their bosses.

“Whenever someone in city government has the audacity to be great, people say, ‘What’s wrong with these guys?’ ” Mayfield said.

Mayfield and Trigs openly disdain the city’s civil service system as too limiting, with Mayfield acknowledging that if he had his way, the entire library leadership would consist of unclassified, at-will employees.

They also talk of creating new expectations and a sense of accountability.

“We’re hiring people who are qualified and know how to work for the public, ” Trigs said. “For so long we haven’t had that. . . . We can’t be passive. So, we’re working hard on staff development and core competency.”

‘She’s just plain smart’

Mayfield, who called Trigs “my partner in crime” at the recent opening of one temporary library, sees no problem with his top aide’s lack of library science training. The recently promoted staffer has a master’s degree in urban studies and has drawn praise for her command of federal aid programs and recovery policies.

“She’s just plain smart, and after Katrina, she was the only one who knew where anything was, ” said Helen Kohlman, a board member for 27 years.

While library patrons may hear little of it, internal turmoil has marked the library system since Katrina heavily damaged or destroyed eight of 13 branches.

The shakeups began in the fall of 2006 when Nagin replaced board member Tania Tetlow, a high-profile advocate for the system, with Mayfield, already a member of the library foundation’s board.

A quick ascension

At Mayfield’s first board meeting, an interim director for the library, Geraldine Harris, announced her resignation. Mayfield immediately became board chairman, something system veterans had never seen.

As the board launched a nationwide search for a new director in early 2007, the system’s personnel director, Sam Stoute, left to work for the Fire Department, leaving a vacancy that has yet to be filled. In the fall of 2007, the board suspended and then fired business manager Monna Mathieu, citing poor performance. Mathieu unsuccessfully challenged her removal in a civil service appeal, and couldn’t be reached for comment for this report.

Her old position has remained unfilled, resulting, library veterans say, in a pileup of unpaid bills that has undone relations with several vendors. One computer supplier, Benecom Technologies of New Orleans, pulled its business when the library took nine months to pay $17,000 in invoices.

Feeling marginalized

There were expectations for a smoother leadership era when, in July 2007, the board hired as the library’s new director Donna Schremser, an acclaimed library executive from Alabama with rich experience in building facilities. “We’re very excited, ” said Trigs, coordinator of administration at the time. “She comes highly recommended.”

But soon it became clear to Schremser that she was being marginalized, left out of key decisions. In March, the board named Trigs to the new position of chief operating officer.

The board followed that change with a decision in June to create a new leadership team headed jointly by the COO, Trigs, and the director, Schremser. The shared leadership structure had no precedent in U.S. public libraries, according to the Urban Libraries Council.

In that same meeting, the board also promoted a pair of midlevel librarians over the heads of three higher-ranking ones: Linda Marshall Hill, Elisabeth Konrad and Jim Mitchell.

While Schremser initially followed orders in delivering news of the board-mandated staff shakeup to other ranking librarians, some of those affected balked, saying the new arrangement was unworkable. The top civil service librarians — three bureau chiefs with a combined 57 years in the city library system — all left in July and August.

First to go was Hill, who was widely acclaimed for her 23 years in the system and her management of the main library downtown after Katrina. She declined a position on the new executive team, taking early retirement when two subordinates were promoted over her peers.

“The executive leadership team is an end-run around the library administration, ” Hill said. “When I saw my two fellow bureau chiefs excluded, I just couldn’t live with it.”

A few days after Hill’s resignation, Mitchell, a bureau chief and interim branch manager, quit rather than take a demotion. And in August, Konrad, a bureau chief with 28 years of experience who served as head of systems, was confronted with performance and personal issues and decided to take early retirement.

On Sept. 18, Schremser was gone, too, a mere year after the board hired her with fanfare.

Director goes

Mayfield now says Schremser was “out to lunch, ” missed portions of important board meetings, couldn’t produce director’s reports and needed Trigs to do everything, including coordinating rebuilding plans.

“If I could do it over again, I would have chosen nobody and promoted from within, ” said Mayfield, who said he was relieved to turn over daily control of the library to Trigs.

Schremser denies the performance charges, and Hill and Konrad argue that the head librarian was set up to fail. Hill said that “from the start, Rica was Irvin’s go-to person” and that “I never saw Irvin in Donna’s office except for maybe two times, and one was to inform her that they’d made Rica the COO.”

For example, in June, just before restructuring the leadership, Mayfield and Trigs went to the Miami-Dade Public Library to learn about best practices. They acknowledge they didn’t tell Schremser and the other top librarians about the publicly financed trip until they returned.

At Schremser’s annual review, Mayfield said he confronted her, but didn’t force her out. He recalled the conversation he and Kohlman had with Schremser:

“I asked her, ‘Do you think this is working out?’ She said, ‘No.’ I asked her, ‘Do you think the taxpayer deserves more?’ She said, ‘Yes.’ I asked her, ‘Do you think it’s time to part ways?’ She said, ‘Yes.’ That’s what I was hoping she’d say, quietly to myself.”

Schremser remembers it differently. She said Mayfield threatened to fire her if she didn’t resign.

She said the board used her as a tool to run off the passed-over bureau chiefs, Mitchell and Konrad. Then it was her turn.

“In the end, I got canned, too . . . no, I ‘got resigned, ‘ ” said Schremser, who has since taken a lower-level job with Jefferson Parish, as a provisional children’s librarian.

The day after Schremser resigned, Ron Biava, director of the New Orleans Public Library Foundation, the nonprofit that supports the library, followed suit. Biava will say only that he had “differences of opinion” with the board.

Mayfield, who personally raises cash and awareness for the library through special concerts, blasted Biava for failing to capitalize on post-Katrina good will in raising money. Biava told the library board he could raise $3.5 million, Mayfield says, but pulled in only $250,000.

Biava disputes those figures, but won’t elaborate. The foundation last filed a tax-exempt IRS return in 2006, when Biava served as a consultant instead of as director. That year, the foundation reported raising $1.1 million.

The decision-making process isn’t the easiest one for the public to follow. For instance, board members said the idea of promoting lower-ranking librarians over their bosses came from consultants. But Trigs has refused to release the consultants’ report because it wasn’t paid for with public money.

And it took a month of repeated requests and a threat of legal action to get the library board and the city attorney’s office to turn over minutes of the March and June board meetings. Trigs said the June minutes weren’t even transcribed until the newspaper asked for them.

Those minutes, as it turns out, don’t even say how board members voted. That’s because, Mayfield said, the votes were unanimous — like every single vote since he took over as chairman.

While Mayfield downplays his control, it’s clear who’s in charge. Some board members decline to give interviews without Mayfield’s approval. Kohlman says such deference is appropriate.

“He’s very good, he watches what he’s doing, ” she said. “Have you ever thought maybe he is a strong leader and what he’s proposing makes sense? Is that possible?”

Nagin is pleased enough with the “energetic” Mayfield that he recently named him to the New Orleans Redevelopment Authority board. But the mayor recently said he’d like to see Mayfield “get more of those libraries renovated and those new concepts going.”

Filling key leadership posts has also proved a slow process. Mayfield and Trigs concede the absence of a business manager and personnel director has caused problems. They say a search is under way for a new director for the support foundation, and Trigs said a new accountant will help with business management.

But it could be six months before a search even begins for a new library director, Trigs said. Mayfield is noncommittal, saying he still prefers to promote from within. That isn’t surprising to some of the duo’s critics, who note that the lack of a director leaves more power in the board’s hands.

The City Charter requires that the board have a professional, trained librarian “in charge of the libraries and other facilities under the (board’s) jurisdiction.” Failing a charter change, the board must replace Schremser — though no timeline is specified by law.

Mayfield says any new chief librarian would still share control with Trigs. Critics wonder, after the events of the past year, who would want the job.

“I think they would have a hard time getting a director because of what happened to me, ” Schremser said.

Rising Tide sponsors a FREE blogging 101 class

•Monday, November 9, 2009 • Leave a Comment

Thursday, November 12, from 6:30 PM to 8:30 PM, Rising Tide is getting its first beginning blogging class on at the Bridge Lounge, located at 1201 Magazine Street. A few us will be showing longtime readers and commenters how we ended up doing this thing and how you can, too, ’cause there are some astute people out there that we know have a lot to say, but might find the details daunting. We will be there to answer all your questions and to set you up right then and there with your own blog. Laptops are welcome. Registration is free.

You read that right. It is free.

Mark your calendars, let us know if you will be attending and ask us anything you want to know in the comments as well – we will cover it at the Bridge Lounge on November 12.

Go to the Rising Tide link here and reply to the post to register

new online petition to save gulf oysters

•Sunday, November 8, 2009 • Leave a Comment

a facebook page dedicated to save the gulf coast oyster industry from overregulation

•Friday, October 30, 2009 • Leave a Comment

please sign the petition to save gulf coast oysters

•Thursday, October 29, 2009 • 2 Comments

don’t tread on our oysters

•Tuesday, October 27, 2009 • Leave a Comment

Beginning in 2011, the FDA wants to sterilize oysters harvested between March and November because of the threat of vibrio vulnificus. If not treated, an outright oyster ban will be imposed. This would seriously impact the oyster industry in this state. It wouldn’t affect oyster consumption so much within Louisiana but it would kill the interstate trade of oysters, especially since 60% of our oysters are shipped elsewhere. Not to mention, when oysters are shucked, they are still alive when consumed raw – any notion of altering the oyster via a sterilization process would kill it and render the taste inferior. This is serious stuff, something must be done to prevent this from ever happening…

UPDATE: You can contact the White House and the FDA directly to register your objection

The White House
1600 Pennsylvania Avenue NW
Washington, DC 20500
Please include your e-mail address
http://www.whitehouse.gov/contact
Phone Numbers
Comments: 202-456-1111
Switchboard: 202-456-1414
FAX: 202-456-2461
TTY/TDD
Comments: 202-456-6213
Visitors Office: 202-456-2121

Food and Drug Administration
10903 New Hampshire Ave
Silver Spring, MD 20993-0002
1-888-463-6332
Industry: industry@fda.gov
Consumers: consumer@fda.gov

Louisiana blasts FDA plan to limit oyster production
By Chris Kirkham, The Times-Picayune
October 27, 2009, 7:22PM

At the small warehouse tucked away in the back side of the French Quarter, the shuckers at P&J Oyster Co. have arrived before daybreak for 133 years.

Their in-shell and shucked oysters have been on the menus of generations of restaurateurs, from oysters on the halfshell at Acme Oyster House and Casemento’s to the seafood gumbo at Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse.

In less than two years, the tradition could become obsolete for seven months out of the year, based on newly announced oyster guidelines from the Food and Drug Administration.

In an effort to reduce cases of a rare, but potentially fatal, bacterial illness contracted from raw oysters, the FDA announced new rules this month that will require any oyster served from April through October to undergo a sterilization process before it can be sold in restaurants or on the market.

The rule will essentially eliminate raw oysters — at least as Louisianans know them — from restaurant menus for seven months of the year. Even oysters that will eventually be cooked during those months would have to go through the same cleansing process before being added to any dish, a move some say would undermine the culinary integrity of some of New Orleans’ most famous delicacies.

“It’s not only going to include raw oysters. You can’t fry oysters for a po-boy, you can’t put oysters in a gumbo and you can’t charbroil oysters unless they’re post-harvest processed,” said Tommy Cvitanovich, owner of Drago’s restaurant, a mainstay for oysters in the metro area. “That’s ludicrous.”

New FDA regulations that could begin in 2011 would require that oysters, from March to November, go through an intense sanitation process before they could be served in restaurants or on the open market. The effects in Louisiana — and nationwide — will be tremendous, from oyster-loving consumers down to seafood dealers and fishers, industry representatives and state government officials say. Louisiana is by far the largest oyster-producing state in the country, responsible for more than a third of the oysters brought to market nationwide.

The vast majority of those oysters are sold out of state.

“You talk about an economic impact that keeps going and going,” said Al Sunseri, the general manager of P&J, which has operated at Rampart and Toulouse streets since 1876. “You’ll have a number of people that count of the Gulf states during those months that will no longer be able to provide product to their customers.”

Local industry representatives and state health officials are highly critical of the FDA plan, with one oyster processor, Mike Voisin, equating the new guidelines to a “nuclear bomb” on the industry.

Alan Levine, secretary of the Louisiana Department of Health and Hospitals, said in a statement Tuesday that his agency has worked with the oyster industry for years to do biological tests and implement new guidelines requiring refrigeration of oysters less than five hours after they are harvested.

“What is particularly interesting is while the FDA seems focused on domestic oyster production, there is wide evidence that imported seafood is a far greater health threat, and there seems to be little movement by the FDA to get their arms around that problem,” Levine said in the statement.

Robert Barham, secretary of the state Department of Wildlife and Fisheries, added in a joint statement, “The effect of the proposed ban would greatly impact the Gulf Coast oyster industry and threaten thousands of jobs here in Louisiana and all along the coast.”

The vibrio vulnificus disease, the target of the FDA initiative, affects about 30 individuals per year nationwide who eat raw oysters from Gulf Coast. About half of those who get the disease, which invades the bloodstream and can cause a severe fever and skin lesions, eventually die.

But those most at risk from vibrio are people who already have immune system disorders, such as AIDS, cancer, kidney disease, diabetes or alcohol abuse.

The oyster industry and FDA have been working for more than a decade to inform consumers who are most susceptible to the disease. But this month the FDA changed course, instead announcing that the industry would have to institute the new technology by 2011 to eliminate any risk from the disease during the months of April through October.

“We no longer believe that measures which reduce the hazard, but fall well short of eliminating it, such as improvements in refrigeration, are sufficient to meet the purpose of the regulation, given the severity of the hazard,” Michael Taylor, a senior adviser to FDA Commissioner Margaret Hamburg, told an industry group earlier this month.

The primary complaint from industry is that the infrastructure is simply not in place to comply with the FDA’s 2011 timetable.

The months of April through October, identified as the time of risk for the vibrio vulnificus disease, make up about 60 percent of the state’s oyster production, based on average harvests over the past 10 years. But the technology needed to comply, known as post-harvest processing, can currently handle only about 10 percent of the total production during those months.

The result could be oysters priced twice, even three times as much as they are now, according to industry estimates.

“The oyster community is made up of mom-and-pop operations that are not capital-intensive,” said Voisin, the owner of Motivatit Seafoods in Houma, who owns one of the three plants currently equipped to sterilize oysters under the upcoming FDA guidelines. “It would create a huge need for capital investment, at a time when huge capital investments into mom and pops are not being made.”

While there are sterilization processes that would allow consumers to still eat oysters from the shell, the technology in some cases actually would pry open the oyster itself. So the freshly shucked oysters at taverns across the city, dredged from the reefs less than a day earlier, would disappear for most of the year.

‘We produce one-third of the oysters in the whole country, and 4 million people in Louisiana can’t eat them all,’ says John Tesvich, a local oyster processor.C.J. Casamento, the owner of Casamento’s restaurant on Magazine Street, said many chefs have tried the sterilized oysters in the past but have stopped because the flavor isn’t the same. His restaurant is already closed from June through August, but the guidelines would cut into one of his peak seasons: Jazz Fest. “People who come down here to eat raw oysters wouldn’t be coming down here to eat these things,” Casamento said of the sterilized oysters. “If they try to implement this, it will destroy all the raw oyster restaurants in the city.”

Because the guidelines have only recently been announced, it’s possible that the state could issue separate guidelines for oysters sold within Louisiana. FDA controls interstate commerce, but not business within individual states.

But the demand for Louisiana oysters nationwide would still put a crimp on the state’s industry, which employs more than 3,500 residents and is worth more than $300 million.

“Most of our oysters go out of state,” said John Tesvich, an oyster processor who owns one of the other plants capable of processing sterilized oysters. “We produce one-third of the oysters in the whole country, and 4 million people in Louisiana can’t eat them all.”